Wet Basement Waterproofing

Tornado’s tore through Virginia on Monday… and caused some serious damage.

Suffolk was hit very bad.. with buildings destroyed, tree’s uprooted, and power pylons damaged.

And with Tornado’s… comes lots of rain. Boy did it ever rain!

Luckily, we have all of our certified basement waterproofing inspectors working in the field and not at the various trainings they attend annually.

Need help finding out why water is coming in your basement, and what you can do about it? Visit our FREE online evaluation page by clicking here.

Take a look at this finished Crawlspace Encapsulation system. Does your crawlspace look this nice and clean?

This is the Cleanspace Encapsulation System for crawlspaces. The system completely seals the crawlspace and keeps the outside elements from effecting your crawlspace.

Not only does it give the crawlspace a clean look… there are many other advantages:

• Creates usable storage space in your crawlspace.
• Prevents moisture and vapor from damaging the subfloor, insulation, and floor joists in your crawlspace.
• 20 Mil. Thick - that’s 6 times greater than the cheap plastic stuff you typically see in a crawlspace.
• Guaranteed not to rip or tear! You have to use a razor to cut through this stuff. It’s a permanent solution!
• Helps to reduce heating/cooling bills by containing conditioned air in the crawlspace.

Pair that with the SaniDry Crawlspace Dehumidifier System - and you’ll have clean, dry, usable crawlspace under your home!

So this is the final option available for waterproofing your basement, and it’s the one that I still recommend over all other options.

It’s the Waterguard System. Here’s a nifty picture:

So what’s so great about this? Well… quote a few things!

First - it uses the same concept as the standard interior basement waterproofing approach. We still install it from the inside of the basement, so all of the outside digging and disruption is avoided. But there are a few differences:

First - you take out a much smaller section of the concrete. Instead of the trench being 2-3 feet wide, you only need about 8 inches or so with Waterguard.

Secondly, and most importantly, the system sets on top of the footer, instead of down in the dirt beside it. Due to it’s design, this is allowable and it will collect water from all 3 places that entry occurs (beneath the floor, where the floor/wall meet, through the wall). However, because the system is not in the dirt, IT CAN NEVER CLOG! This is the major benefit that waterguard offers over all other interior basement waterproofing approaches.

So how about some more info on Waterguard? Here are some links:

Waterguard Product Info Page - http://www.wet-basement-waterproofing.com/products1/waterguard/

Video on Waterguard - http://www.wet-basement-waterproofing.com/products5/waterguard1/

Nifty Product Brochure - http://www.wet-basement-waterproofing.com/products5/waterguard2/waterguard.swf

So there you have it! If you’re looking to keep your basement dry, permanently, with the least amount of disruption possible - Waterguard most likely is the option you’ll want to choose.

Did you know you can get an evaluation and estimate for this product free of charge through our site? Take a look at this page here.

OK, so now let’s talk about interior basement waterproofing.

It’s the most common method that nearly all standard basement waterproofing companies offer.

It goes by many names - interior drainage system, french drain, drain tile, sub-floor piping system, etc. Regardless of what you call it - it has several pro’s and con’s to consider.

First of all - it’s a MUCH better option than outside excavation. The idea is that you remove a section of the floor around the perimeter of your basement - usually between 2 and 3 feet wide. Then you dig out all of the dirt and debris, until you reach the footer.

Next, you install a perforated black pipe along the perimeter, and attach it to a sump pump.

Finally, you put in drainage gravel, replace the concrete floor, and you’re done!

So sound’s perfect eh? Well, let’s look at that.
The Advantages of Interior Drainage Systems

• Much cheaper than outside excavation
• Much less disruption than outside excavation
• The guarantee is typically much better (Many offer lifetime warranties)
• The system will correct the hydrostatic pressure problems (water rising up from the bottom) that outside excavation will not correct.

Now, Let’s Look at The Disadvantages

First and foremost - it’s a system that will fail. When you put a perforated pipe down in the ground with the dirt, the water washes that dirt into the pipe. over time, they have an extremely high tendency to clog. Take a look at this picture:

Look at the end of the pipe - it’s completely filled with mud! You’re not going to get a lot of water through that pipe!

The next biggest issue is the material being used. It’s the exact same process that was done when they first built the house. The only difference is that it’s on the inside of the footer instead of the outside. Given this, you still have the same problems facing you.

Obviously, the pipe can clog. Secondly, it’s not an expensive product at all. It’s the same thing you buy at Home Depot or Lowes for about 15 cents per foot. Have you seen homes with black pipes extending off of the downspouts? Well, that’s what this material is. The only difference is that the drainage pipe is perforated… to allow water INTO the pipe.

The third most important con against this method is the installation. It’s VERY, VERY important NOT to work with a company that subcontracts the work out. Many companies will sell you a product, and then hire outside labor to install the job. These laborer’s could be doing a deck one day, then siding, then putting on a new roof, and here they come to waterproof your basement.

So what’s the big deal?

If you have someone who is inexperienced in this work, they can easily install the system improperly. The worst case scenario is that they install the piping too low, or beneath the footer. When this happens, the dirt that washes into the pipe comes from underneath of the footer. The footer is what holds your home up. If there’s nothing supporting the footer, there’s nothing supporting your home.

This can quickly lead to a structural repair job, which can cost you the big bucks!

So, everything I’ve talked about so far has a downside, doesn’t it? Next time, we’ll talk about a method that does not have these downsides - and is the proper way to correct a basement water problem.

Until Next Time!

OK, so this post will probably get some people riled up. We’re going to talk about attempting to waterproof your basement from the outside.

So the idea makes sense. It’s called positive side waterproofing. You attempt to waterproof the basement walls and stop the water before it has a chance to get to the wall. Makes sense doesn’t it? Well… let’s look at how it works.

The first thing that has to be done is excavating around your home. Basically, digging up all of the ground around your home, down to the footer. An OSHA regulation is that for every foot you dig down, you must also dig out a foot. This is to ensure that the hole does not collapse. So if your basement is 8 feet in the ground, you have to dig out 8 feet away from the home. Anything within this 8 feet radius must be removed. This includes driveways, sidewalks, patios, decks, porches, shrubs, flower beds, etc.

OK, so now we have a big hole around the house. The next step is to apply some sort of material to the outside wall. Some use a rubber membrane, which is fine. Others use a process called parging - where you apply a layer of portland cement, then a layer of tar to the outside of the wall.

After coating the wall, we install another draintile system around the footer, and tie the draintile to a sump pump.

Finally, we fill the hole back in. Voila - your basement is waterproofed!

There’s a few problems with this approach, that are big enough for you NOT to want to use this method.

The first, obviously, is the disruption to your home. You’re digging a big ditch around your house and tearing a lot of things up.

Secondly, this is the same approach that is used when they first build a home. If it worked the first time, you wouldn’t have to do it the second time.

Here’s the kicker though. This approach does NOTHING to solve hydrostatic pressure problems - which is the most common problem. Any water that is coming up from under your floor will not be addressed. So, you still run the risk of your basement being wet.

Lastly, it’s not a permanent solution. Most companies will offer a 1 year guarantee. So if the system fails 2 years from now - you have to do it again. The tar used to coat walls has a shelf life of 7 years. That means that sitting in a bucket, on a shelf, in optimum conditions - it will last for 7 years. Put it to use and this lifespan drops drastically.

So what does it cost? A lot. Obviously, it will vary by area and company. But you can expect to spend $20,000. PLUS… the cost of replacing the items that were taken out when excavation was done. Putting in a new deck, sidewalk, and flower bed can get expensive also.

Many people preach the fact that you have to stop the water before it gets into your basement. Unfortunately, this is not an option. As I mentioned before, even the biggest dam’s in the world have flood gates. When water is coming, it’s coming. rather than trying to “stop” the water, the goal here is to “manage” it and prevent it from coming into your basement and causing damage.

So, next we’ll be looking at a much more economical solution - the interior footing drain system. It has it’s pro’s and con’s. you can decide if it’s the best solution for your basement.

Until next time!

So… let’s look at another option you have available to you - painting your basement walls with a sealant.

The technical term for this is “negative side waterproofing” - which means you attempt to block the water from coming in from the opposite side where the water actually comes from.

There are many products off the shelf you can buy. Just take a trip to Home Depot or Lowe’s and you can see them.

So does it work? The answer is - let’s hope not.

First of all, you have to come to the realization that there is NOTHING any company can do to stop water. Even dam’s have floodgates because when water is coming, it’s coming. So from the beginning, this approach is failed.

Secondly - when you stop the water from coming into the basement by sealing the walls - all you have accomplished is removing the pressure release point for the water to escape. Obviously, the water doesn’t disappear when you do this. It will continue to build up on the outside of the basement walls. Additionally, in a concrete block foundation, the water will be trapped inside of the wall.

So why does that matter?  Best case scenario is that the paint simply fails and lets the water back into your basement. The worse case scenario is while the paint actually works. As the water builds up - it will start to deteriorate your foundation walls - causing cracks, weakening, and even collapse of the wall. Think about it. A gallon of water has a good bit of weight to it. Imagine several thousand gallons of water pushing against your walls. It’s only a matter of time.

Finally, you have to look at the product itself. In the bucket, on a shelf, perfect conditions - the average sealant has a lifespan of 7 years. When the product is applied, it obviously quickly diminishes.

So - if you’re considering painting your basement walls to solve your wet basement problems - think again. It’s an option that you’ll want to avoid.

Next, we’ll look at some options that offer guarantees. The first being Positive Side Waterproofing - the art of digging up around your house and trying again.

Until next time!

So you want to know about the options you have for basement waterproofing products and systems, eh?

Well, there are a few. Some are similar. Instead of promoting a specific line (such as the WaterGuard waterproofing system that I recommend - cheap plug)
Option #1 - Downspouts and Gutters

So downspouts and gutters may seem like basement waterproofing products, but they truly are not. They are to collect rainwater that lands on top of your home, and drain it away from the house. The goal is to keep the water from running down the side of the house and eroding the soil around your home.

There’s a simple way to tell if these will solve your problems. If you notice water running down from the top of your basement walls.. almost in a Christmas-tree pattern… odds are you have an issue with your gutters or downspouts.

Unfortunately, most people do not suffer from this problem. Doing work on your gutters/downspouts needs to be done, but there’s a few reasons why it will not typically fix your basement waterproofing problems.

First… the gutters only collect the water that lands on top of your roof. It does nothing for the rain that lands beside it. This water leaks down into the ground, and into your basement.

Secondly, they do nothing to resolve water problems that come up from under the floor, or where the floor and wall meet.

So - if the water runs down the wall ONLY - this may solve your problem. Otherwise, you’ll need to examine other basement waterproofing products.

Tomorrow - we’ll look at another option - painting the basement walls.

Warm air rises. We all know this. It also leaks out of the upper levels of your house. When it does, new air must enter the home to replace the air that was lost.

Here’s a fact for you - in a good, tight home - about 50% of the air escapes each hour!

This creates a suction, or “stack effect” that pulls air from the lower levels of the home (your basement) up to the remaining levels of the home.

Scientists say that up to 50% of the air you are breathing right now came from the basement level.

So what’s in your basement? Is it damp? Musty smelling? Moldy? Plain old wet? Well…lik it or not - you’re breathing that air.

So why not fix the problem? When you fix your wet basement, you also help the quality of air that you are breathing in your home. This obviously affects your health too!

Find out more on cleaning up your air with our Sanidry Dehumidifier System.

Find out how to get your basement dry by viewing our online evaluation page.

Here’s To Clean Air!

Found a great website today - floodsmart.gov. Lots of great information on here.

My favorite is the online that estimates the cost of damage that flooding would cause in your home. You can use the tool by clicking here.

Obviously, this tool assumes values in your based on average claims. What’s neat about the tool is that you can adjust the amount of flooding to see how the damage cost would change.

So… how much would oyu stand to lose by your basement flooding?

Take a look at this article.

You’re going to se a lot more of these types of articles if this spring turns into a rainy season as expected.

Whenever you have a winter with lots of snow and ice.. all of that has to go somewhere. When it melts, obviously, it sinks into the ground and… into your basement.

Funny part of this story is the guy they interview, saying he’s getting 10-15 calls per week. A few months ago, the top dealer scheduled over 1,000 inspections within a weeks time. Pretty amazing.